Crissy writes~
Yesterday I came home from the local nursery with a plant called an Imperial Taro. It is in the usual small container from the nursery. The tag says it's mature height is 30". I have a pot I want to plant it in that is big enough for when it is full grown. Is it OK to go ahead and plant it in such a big pot to start off? Or should I pot up gradually? I thought I heard something about "Don't put in too large of a pot"? Can you clear things up for me, please? Also any growing tips would, as always, be greatly appreciated.

A. Repot into a new clean pot with a diameter 2" in diameter greater than the present one even though taro is a fast grower. Keep in that pot until the roots have form a tight web on the interior and show the need to spread into fresh potting mix, in about 6 months. Maximum diameter should be around 12". Plant in a very well-drained potting mix with added perlite or gravel as taro loves lots of water but too much can lead to rot. Shallow planting will result in corms developing above the ground surface and these exposed corms are more likely to be damaged by insect pests and rodents. Water soon after planting to remove air pockets. Fertilize every two months during the growing season with a basic outdoor 20-20-20. Nitrogen seems to be the main requirement. Like all tuberous crops, taro has a high requirement for potassium, which is essential for starch formation. Mulching is beneficial provided the soil is not too high in organic matter already. As mulch breaks down, it improves growth rates by providing nutrients and improving soil structure and soil moisture. Despite its hardiness, taro is susceptible to attack by slugs, caterpillars and snails which may damage corms creating wounds which provide entry of secondary disease organisms. Treat immediately and keep the pots or garden areas weed-free to eliminate their hiding places.

Crissy writes~
What is my Imperial Taro plant doing now? I cared for my plant as you advised, It has done well over the summer. Then a couple weeks of ago it produced a flower or something. It was yellow and reminded me somewhat of the flower on a Peace Lilly. But before it could completely open up, it dried and shriveled up. I missed a day in my water routine. It's been very hot and dry here. The next day is when the bloom started to dry up. Don't know if that effected it. Well, now it's doing it again! It is shooting up a tall yellow flower looking thing. This one hasn't started to open up yet. Is it a flower? And how should I care for this guy over the winter.

A.The taros are known to throw an occasional flower resembling those of the lily family or similar to a caladium flower. They are not very decorative. The heat, sun, dry air and soil most likely led to the wilting and death of the tender flower as it was developing. as others appear, keep well-tended.

Colocasia esculenta 'Illustris' (Aquatic)black caladium Imperial Taro - Dramatic perennial 3-6' tall with dark purple leaves w/ green veins. Hardy to mid 20's. Evergreen in frost free areas. Regular water. Perfect for ponds. Hardy in zones 9-11.

Colocasia antiquorum (Imperial Taro) -These heart shaped taro leaves are purple and green. It grows to 3-4'. It is hardy zones 9-11.

So, if you are in colder zones than above, you will need to overwinter the plant indoors. They are tropical and tender. Otherwise, cover with a 1-2" layer of organic sterilized mulch as temperatures drop in the fall.